NEATH'S,

Going to Neath's is like visiting a beloved aunt who loves to prepare the out-of-this-world dishes that she knows are your favorites. You don't see her often, so each meal offers both a surprise and a bit of déjà vu. The thing is, Neath's restaurant has a very limited menu -- only seven main-dishes, plus a couple of nightly specials, and no patronizing us with pastas. It's easy to eat your way through the menu, zeroing in on the entrees that really speak to you, and returning for them. Which is what I did recently. Neath's is housed in a big, open room with a wide-open kitchen on the other side of a half-partition, across from a second-story view of the Providence River. Even with the view, you'll mostly be looking at your plate.

Full review.